Manufacture of shoes



Oct. 15, 1940. PALMER 2,217,767

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 10, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 50 W f W V 5g32 F1 g5 50 5.9 56 M FjgA,

W i M K 1 EV w x--- 42 56 w k j} /77 52 & X Y

VIII!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIII:IIIII!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIZIIIII/Ila J. PALMER Oct. 15, 1940.

MANUFACTURE OF 51-10 ES Filed Jan. 10, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 PatentedOct. 15, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT orFlcE 2,217,767 MANUFACTURE or snonsJames Palmer, Nashville, Tenn, assignor to United Shoe MachineryCorporation, Borough of Flem: ington, N. J a corporation of New JerseyApplication January 10, 1938, Serial No. 184,137

3 Claims.

central projection complemental to said insole recess on the forepart ofan outsole at the side which is to face the insole, and the assembly ofsaid insole and said outsole during the process of making the shoe withthe complemental portions of the soles in interfitted relation.

The present invention provides an improved method of making shoes theinner and outer soles of which have complemental interfitting portionsof the character above referred to, the practice of which will producemarked improvements in the construction of the shoes and Will result inthe making of substantial savings in the cost of materials employed andthe shoemaking operations involved. The improved method consists inremoving a thin layer from the grain side of a leather insole blank ofblock insole form and cementing the remaining body portion of the blankto the flesh side of a block outsole, thereby providing a composite soleblank comprising a block form layer of insole material and a block formlayer of outsole material, trimming the layer of outsole material tooutsole size and shape and incising the layer of insole material toinsole size and shape, dividing the composite blank into a skeletonizedinsole member havin an opening in its forepart, an outsole having aforepart projection complemental to the opening in the insole member,and a waste strip of insole material, cementing the thin block formlayer initially removed from the insole blank to the skeletonized insolemember withthe grain surface of that layer outermost, trimming the thinlayer to the contour of the skeletonized insole member, and using theinsole thus produced together with the outsole in the manufacture of ashoe having complemental interfitting sole portions. By securing to theskeletonized insole member the layer removed from the insole blank itwill be unnecessary to employ the usual sock lining in the shoe and aconsiderable saving will be effected, inasmuch as the cost of a separatesock lining will be eliminated as well as the expense incident to theoperation of inserting the sock lining. Moreover, the insole itself willbe of a superior construction inasmuch as the relatively thin centralportion of its forepart willbe of uniform thickness and strengththroughout its area and thus will function most effectively to reinforcethe insole against strains tending to stretch or distort it in edgewisedirections. The invention will now be explained with reference to theaccompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional View of theforepart of an insole blank showing the blanksplit into a relativelythin grain layer and a relatively thick 10 Fig. 2 is a cross-sectionalview of a laminated sole blank produced by cementing the flesh layershown in Fig. 1 to an outsole blank;

Fig.3 is a cross-sectional view of the laminated 15 blank shown in Fig.2 as it appears after it has been rounded;

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional View of a skeleton insole-complementaloutsole combination produced by splitting the blank shown in Fig. 3; I

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the lower side of the skeleton insoleshown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of .the upper side of the complementaloutsole shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view of the forepart 25 of the skeletoninsole after the thin grain layer shown in Fig. 1 has been cemented toit;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view of the insole after the grain layer hasbeen trimmed to the contour of the flesh layer and the flesh layer has30 been channeled so as to form inner and outer channels therein;

' Fig. 9 is a cross-sectionalview of the insole as it appears after thechannel lips have been raised and reinforced;

Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional view of theinsole assembled'with an upperon a last, the margin of 1 the upper being secured in overlastedposition upon the insole;

Fig. 11 is a View similar to Fig. 10 showing the 40 shoe as it appearsafter the upper together with a welt have been secured to the sewing ribby inseam stitches;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a pair of insole blanks or blockinsoles of the type illustrated in 45 Fig. 1, showing each blank splitinto a relatively thin grain layer and a relatively thick flesh layer;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of a pair of recessed insoles of laminatedor composite construction, together with a pair of complemental 50outsoles ready for use in the manufacture of a pair of shoes; and

Fig. 14 is a view, partially in perspective and partially incross-section, of a completed shoe.

In practicing my improved method of shoe- 55 making, as exemplified inthe drawings, an insole blank or block insole 28 of leather having agrain surface 22 and a flesh surface 24 is split, as indicated at 26,into a relatively thin grain surface layer 28 and a relatively thicklayer 33. The relatively thick insole layer 30 is secured by means ofcement 32, for example latex, to a leather outsile blank or blockoutsole 34. having a flesh surface 35 and a grain surface 36, thesurface of the insole blank which was formed by the splitting operationabove described facing the flesh surface 35 of the outsole.

The laminated sole blank thus produced is cut to outsole size, asindicated at 38 in Fig. 3, and the insole layer of the blank ispreferably incised at this stage of operations, as indicated at 39, tooutline an insole slightly smaller in size than the outsole andappropriate for use with said outsole in the manufacture of a welt shoe.Advantageously, this rounding and incising may be performedsimultaneously by means of a socalled Double knife rounding machinesuch, for example, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No.2,057,665, granted October 20, 1936, upon application of F. E. Bertrand,one of the knives of the machine rounding the blank to the sole-shapedcontour 38 and thus determining the outline of the outsole which issubsequently to be produced, while the second knife of the machine cutsthrough the layer of insole material producing the vertical incision 39and thus determining the outline of the insole. The rounded and incisedsole blank is then divided or split along the line X-X (Fig. 3) intoaskeletonized insole member 9 having an opening 42 extending entirelythrough its forepart and an outsole Al i having a forepart projection 46complemental to theopening 42 in the insole. The skeletonized insolemember 40 and the projection 46 on the outsole i i are thus formedentirely from the material of the insole layer 30. This dividingoperation may conveniently be performed by means of a matrix roll typesplitting machine of the general type of that disclosed in United StatesLetters Patent No. 2,053,304, granted September 8, 1936, uponapplication of W. D. Thomas, such a machine having a straight-edgedsplitting knife against which the sole blank is fed edgewise by means ofcooperating matrix rolls which temporarily deform or distort the blankby depressing its central forward portion so that the knife will emergearound the periphery of the depressed portion of the blank.

The thin grain surfaced layer 28 initially split from the block insole20 (Fig. 1) is then cemented to the skeletonized insole member 40, asindicated in Fig. 7. As shown, the layer 28 is largerthan the insolemember 40 and the surplus marginal material of the thin layer 28 istrimmed to the size and shape of the member Ml, the trimming out beingadvantageously gaged from the previously trimmed or incised edge of themember Mi so that the edge of the thin layer will be flush with the edgeof the member 49, as indicated in Fig. 8. This trimming of the thinlayer 28 may be efiected by the use of suitable trimming means (notshown), the out being gaged from the previously trimmed or incised edgeof the insole member 40. If the layer 28 were initially out to the samesize as the insole member 45, the difficulty of accurately registeringthetwo parts after cement has been applied to them would be such as tomake such an operation so time consuming as to be entirelyimpracticable. By cutting the layer 28 oversize and trimming it to sizeafter its attachment to the insole member lib, however, accurate resultsmay be obtained Without any substantial delay in the process ofmakingthe shoe. After the trimming operation has been performed, therehas ben provided a laminated insole 28 (Fig. 8) having a recess 5% whichextends only part way through the forepart of the laminated structureand which is complemental to the forepart projection it on the outsole44.

The invention is herein exemplified with reference to the manufacture ofwelt shoes and accordingly, after the laminated insoles have been formedas already desciibed, the relatively thick layer of the insole ischanneled to form inner and outer channel lips 52 and 54, respectively(Fig. 8), and these channel lips are raised and cemented together toform a sewing rib 58 (Fig. 9). It is to be noted that While it would bequite impracticable to channel the skeletonized insole layer 49 beforethe thin layer 28 had been applied to it (because the opening in thethick layer would weaken it so that it would be stretched out of shapewhile being fed through the channeling machine) nevertheless after thetwo layers have been cemented together the resulting laminated orcomposite structure is strengthened to such an extent that no diflicultyis experienced in successfully performing the channeling operation. Asshown in Fig. 9, the laminated insole 48 is further reinforced after therib 58 has been formed thereon by a layer of canvas 58 which iscementedto that portion of the surface of the layer which lies withinthe rib 56 and to the inner side of the rib itself.

In using this reinforced ribbed insole 68 in making a welt shoe asherein illustrated, the insole is assembled with an upper (if: on a last62, the upper is worked over the last and its margin is secured inoverlasted position to the rib 56 as by means of staples St. The insole,being formed of two layers cemented together, will be more effectivethan a solid insole, i. e., one of non-laminated construction, inresisting any tendency of the lasting instrumentalities to dis-' tort orcrumple its marginal portion while the upper is being worked inwardlyover the edge of the insole. Upon the release of the tension exertedupon the upper in the lasting operation the layer 28 which bridges therecess 5E3 will prevent the insole from reacting or expanding under theinfluence of the pull exerted thereon by the lasted upper. Thereafter awelt 66 is applied and the welt, the upper and the insole are united bymeans of inseam stitches 58 which extend through the insole rib 55.

After the usual inseam trimming operation has been performed the shoe isready to receive the outsole 64 which is laid with its forepartprojection i6 interfitting within the recess 5!) of the insole. Asshown, the outsole is attached to the welt 66 by means of outseamstitches it.

As a result of the practice of my invention the desirable features ofcomplemental insole-outsole construction may be secured in a welt shoewithout the disadvantages incident to the use of the usual skeletoninsole. Not only is the insole made more firm and substantial as aresult of its laminated construction so that it will permanently retainits shape in the finished shoe, but this advantage is obtained withoutsacrificing fiexibiilty inasmuch as each of the component layers of theinsole consists of leather insole material and the layersare securedtogether by latex or other cement which is'of such a character that itdoes not appreciably stiffen the sole so as to resist bending to oneside or the other as required to accommodate the flexure of the foot inwalking. On the other hand,.the insole is substantially strengthened byvirtue of its laminated construction against distortion as a result ofpressure applied to it in edgewise directions and thus it functionseffectively to support the upper internally just above the inturnedmargin of the latter and holds it close to the margin of the outsole.Moreover, inasmuch as the thin layer 28 at the upper side of the insolehas a grain surface at its upper side it is unnecesary to employ theusual sock lining to provide a smooth foot-engagingsurface and toprovide the desired neat and finished appearance to the interior of theshoe bottom. Thus, not only is a substantial saving in the cost of shoematerials and operations effected, but the construction of the shoe isimproved since the foot-facing side of the insole will be maintainedfree from wrinkles throughout the life of the shoe.

The outsole shown in Fig. 6 is a left outsole and'the skeletonizedinsole member shown in Fig. is of an edge contour corresponding to thatof the outsole so that the insole which is finally produced is a leftinsole. It will be understood that in order to make a pair of shoes itis necessary to provide the insoles and outsoles in rights and lefts. Asalready pointed out it is desirable, in making the laminated insoles, tohave the grain surface of the thin imperforate layer 28 outermost at theupper side of the insole so that a smooth finished surface like that ofthe upper surface of a sock lining will be presented for engagement withthe foot. It is also desirable to have the lower or outsole facing sideof the laminated insole of firm and solid material so that after it hasbeen channeled the channel lips will be sufficiently strong to make asatisfactory sewing rib. These results may be accomplished by proceedingas follows. There is provided a right insole blank or block insole Ahaving a lower r grain surface, and a left insole blank or block insoleB having a lower grain surface. Each of these blanks is split into athin layer 28 (Fig. 12) having a lower grain surface, and a relativelythick layer 36. .The thick layer 30 from the right insole block A iscemented to a right outsole block and the thick layer 30 from the leftinsole block B is cemented to a left outsole block. In each case thesplit side of the insole block is next to the flesh side of the outsoleblock. The left and right laminated blanks thus produced, after havingbeen rounded, are split into complemental. insole-outsole combinations,a left skeleton insole'member and a left complernental outsole beingproduced from the left blank, and a right skeleton insole member and aright complemental outsole being produced from the right blank. Then thethin layer 28 from the left insole block B is inverted and cementedgrain surface uppermost to the upper or foot facing side of the rightskeleton insole member and the thin layer 28 from the right insole blankA is inverted and cemented grain surface uppermost to the upper or footfacing side of the left skeleton insole member. In each case the thinlayer 28 is cemented tothat side of the thick layer 36, which wasfurther from the grain surface in the block insole from which the thicklayer was cut, thus leaving exposed for channeling the side which wasnearer to the grain surface and which is consequently of maximumfirmness. After the thin layers have been trimmed there has beenprovided a pair of laminated or composite insoles C, C (Fig. 13) eachhaving a recess extending only part way through its forepart and theseinsoles are now ready for assembly with a pair of complemental outsolesD, D (Fig. 13) in the making of a pair of shoes.

It should be understood that if it is not desired to employ right andleft insole blanks or block insoles from which to split the relativelythin.

layers 28 and the relatively thick layers 3i) that are ultimately toconstitute the laminated recessed insoles, it is practicable to employinsole blanks or block insoles which are neither rights nor lefts, i.e., which are of such shapes that either right soles or left soles maybe out therefrom.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in removing a thinlayer from the grain side of a leather insole blank of block insole formand cementing the remaining body portion of the blank to theflesh sideof a block outsole, thereby providing a composite sole blank comprisinga block form layer of insole material and a block form layer of outsolematerial, trimming said layer of outsole material to outsole size andshape and incising said layer of insole material to insole size andshape, dividing said composite blank into a skeletonized insole memberhaving an opening in its forepart, an outsole having a forepartprojection complemental to. the opening in said insole member, and aWaste strip ofinsole material, cementing the thin block form layerinitially removed from said insole blank to said skeletonized insolemember with the grain surface of said layer outermost, trimming saidthin layer to the contour of the skeletonized insole member, and usingthe insole thus produced together with said outsole in the manufactureof a shoe having complemental interfltting sole portions.

2. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in removing a thinlayer from the grain side of a leather insole blank of block insole formand cementing the remaining body portion of the blank to the flesh sideof a block outsole, thereby providing a composite sole blank comprisinga block form layer of insole material and a block form layer of outsolematerial, trimming said layer of outsole material to outsole size havingan opening in its forepart, an outsole having a forepart projectioncomplemental to the opening in said insole member, and a waste strip ofinsole material, cementing the thin block form layer initially removedfrom said insole blank to said skeletonized insole member with the grainsurface of said layer outermost, trimming said thin layer to the contourof skeletonized insole member, forming a marginal channel lip upon saidinsole member, raising said lip and reinforcing it to form a sewing rib,securing an upper and a welt to said rib, and attaching said outsolewith said projection interfitting within the opening in said insolemember.

3. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in providing a rightinsole blank and a left insole blank each being composed of leatherright outsole blank and a left outso le blank, removing a thin layerfrom the lower or grain side of each of said right and left insoleblanks and cementing the remaining relatively thick layers of saidblanks to said right and left outsole blanks, respectively, trimming theright and left laminated blanks thus produced to right and left soleedge contours, respectively, dividing said right laminated blank into aright skeletonized insole member having an opening in its forevpart anda right outsole having an insole projection complemental to the openingin said insole member, dividing said left laminated blank into a leftskeletonized insole member having an opening in its forepart and a leftoutsole having an insole projection complemental to the opening in saidinsole member, inverting the thin layer from said right insole blank andcementing it to the upper side of said left skeletonized insole memberwith its grain surface outermost, inverting the thin layer from saidleft insole blank and cementing it to the upper side of said rightskeletonized insole member with its grain surface outermost, and usingthe laminated right and left insoles thus produced with said right andleft outsoles, respectively, in the manufacture of a pair of shoeswherein the said ou'tsole projections are interfitted within said insoleopenings.

JAMES PALMER.

